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How to Measure a Room Before Ordering Furniture

A practical guide to measuring a room before ordering furniture: walls, doors, windows, sockets, AC units, ceiling height, lift and stair access, plus photos and a sketch.

Buying guides ·

Get your tools ready

Accurate measuring saves you from a piece that won't fit through the door or a sofa that blocks a socket you need. Prepare:

  • A metal tape measure of at least 5 metres, or a laser measure for longer distances.
  • Squared paper or a notebook and pencil for a rough plan.
  • A phone for photos.
  • A second person to hold the end of the tape.

Always measure in centimetres and write each figure straight onto the sketch, not on a separate sheet.

Walls and floor

  • Measure each wall corner to corner at floor level, then again at about one metre high; walls are rarely perfectly straight.
  • Record the smaller figure, because that is the one that limits you.
  • Allow for skirting boards and projecting cornices, which take centimetres off the usable space.
  • Mark columns, projections and recesses and their distance from the nearest corner.
  • Measure both diagonals corner to corner; if they differ by more than two centimetres the room is not quite square, which matters for built-in wardrobes and corner pieces.

If a piece will be built between two walls, such as a wardrobe or bookcase, measure the width at three levels — near the floor, mid-height and near the ceiling — and use the smallest.

Doors and windows

For every door and window record:

  • Clear width and height inside the frame.
  • Distance from the nearest corner.
  • Which way the door opens and its swing area, so it never hits a wardrobe or bed.
  • Sill height from the floor, which sets the maximum height of a sofa back or bedside table placed below.
  • The position and depth of the curtain box or track.

Sockets, switches and AC units

These small details are the ones most often forgotten:

  • Locations and heights of sockets, light switches, TV and data points.
  • Position and height of the indoor split unit; never put a tall cabinet directly beneath it, and keep the airflow clear.
  • Central AC supply and return grilles in the ceiling or walls.
  • Water heaters, electrical panels and any service hatch that must stay accessible.

Ceiling height and fixed elements

  • Measure ceiling height at several points, especially with a dropped or multi-level gypsum ceiling.
  • Note the chandelier or central light point; it usually decides where the dining table goes.
  • Tall wardrobes need clearance above them so they can be tilted upright during installation.
  • Record the height of any dropped gypsum along the wall where a wardrobe will stand; it may be lower than the ceiling in the middle of the room.
  • Check floor levels; a step or threshold between rooms affects the installation of wardrobes and long pieces.

While measuring, think about the clearances you will need around the furniture: about 75–90 cm behind dining chairs so they pull out easily, about 40–45 cm between sofa and coffee table, and at least 60 cm on each side of the bed for movement.

Access route: entrance, lift and stairs

A piece that fits the room may not reach it. Measure the full route from the building or villa entrance:

  • Width and height of the entrance and corridor doors.
  • The lift: door width plus internal depth, width and height, and the floor-to-ceiling diagonal.
  • Stairs: width, headroom and any tight turn or landing.
  • Internal corridors and corners the piece must turn through.

If the route is narrow, ask before ordering whether the piece can be dismantled or built in sections.

Photos and the sketch to send

So the designer understands the room without seeing it:

  • Photograph each wall straight on, then one shot from every corner across the room.
  • Photograph the floor, the ceiling, the entrance and the lift.
  • Draw a plan view showing walls, doors and their swing, windows, sockets and AC, with every measurement written on it.
  • Mark north or the main source of daylight if you can.
  • List what you plan to put in the room and any existing furniture you are keeping, with its dimensions.

Mistakes to avoid

  • Measuring before finishing work is complete; tiles, skirting and gypsum all change the figures.
  • Relying on architectural drawings instead of measuring on site.
  • Forgetting the opening space for wardrobe doors and drawers, which usually need 60–90 cm in front.
  • Rounding figures up.

If you are unsure of your measurements, you can book a free survey visit with Arti Design and our team will measure on site before design starts.

Common questions

Should I measure before or after finishing work?
After. Tiles, skirting and dropped ceilings all change the real dimensions, and architectural drawings should not be relied on. Read more →
Why measure the lift and stairs?
A piece that fits the room may not get through the route; measure the lift door and interior, stair width and turns, and ask whether the piece can be dismantled. Read more →
Does the AC unit position matter when choosing a wardrobe?
Yes. Never place a tall wardrobe directly under the indoor unit, and keep the airflow in front of it clear. Read more →
Which photos should I send to the designer?
One of each wall straight on, one from every corner, plus the ceiling, floor, entrance and lift, together with a sketch showing every measurement. Read more →
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Let us start with a photo. Send the piece you fell for or the plan of your space, and we come back to you with a written price and date.

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Since 1970 we have made classic and modern furniture and delivered fit-out work from our own Damietta factories. Our own team designs, makes and installs for homes, hotels and institutions across Saudi Arabia, the Gulf and Egypt.

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